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Category Archives: Foundation
Academic beauty: Makeup for author headshots and beyond
This is one of those blog entries that’s been in the hopper for far too long – it’s been months already since I had this gig! But, better late than never…
This past Spring (yeah, I know!) I had the opportunity to do makeup for an author’s book jacket photo, and really wanted to write about my experience and the makeup considerations for shoots like this. My subject: Margaret Price, an Assistant Professor at Spelman College in Atlanta, GA. (She spent many years working in MA and hired me for her headshots during a trip to a local academic conference, hence our timely crossing of paths.) Margaret has an upbeat and fun-loving personality that keeps her students laughing as they learn, but was understandably nervous and self-conscious about modeling for her headshot.
She really shouldn’t have worried. Maybe it was photographer Lesley Arak’s superior professionalism, maybe it was Margaret’s natural flamboyance, or maybe (just maybe!) it was the fact that she absolutely loved the makeup I did – but she was a natural in front of the lens.
Here’s the look I came up with – polished, natural beauty all the way! – and you can tell from her genuine smile that she was actually having a good time in front of the camera:
I particularly love how relaxed, natural, uncontrived, and HAPPY she looks – and who wouldn’t be happy when they were fulfilling the “publish” part of “publish or perish”? Given her neat-but-casual wardrobe, loosely styled hair and natural smile, she also looks down-to-earth and FRIENDLY. Approachability is not an expected trait in academics, which is a shame considering most of them actually ARE approachable (they have to be; they teach 19-year-olds!) It’s all too easy to seem aloof when you’re actually nervous, so Margaret’s unexpected ease was a joy to behold.
Professors, authors, actors, CEOs… professionals in many industries benefit from having a good, professional photo, and makeup is a big part of making the end result outstanding. Whether you do your own face or hire a pro, here are a few principles to keep in mind:
- As with ANY photo shoot, be sure to avoid makeup that is photoreflective (read: sparkly). If you have too much mica all over your face you risk looking greasy, washed out, sweaty, or all of the above once the flash hits you. Stick with a natural matte or satin finish and restrict the shimmer to the places you want to highlight (such as eyes, cheekbones, or lips – and not all three at once!)
- Remember that photography is a 2-dimensional medium, and your face is not. Makeup serves to bring out your features and gives you the opportunity to subtly emphasize your eyes, cheekbones, and lips – anything that would be too monochromatic or muted if left bare in a photo. While few people highlight and contour their faces in everyday life, photography – especially black & white photography – is the ideal time to make sure that your features retain their shape. (But err on the side of subtlety – too much contour or bad blending lands you straight in 1980s territory! Hey, I never said this stuff was EASY.)
- A headshot is, at its simplest, you as yourself. Actor headshots, for example, need to accurately depict the person who is showing up for the casting, but there is an “effortless” polish to them. The look should be about your face, not the makeup you’re wearing. My look for Margaret served to unify and brighten her complexion and emphasize her eyes, but she still looks like Margaret.
When in doubt, hire a professional – and that goes double for the photography! Headshots are deceptively simple-looking, but ask any pro photographer – they are among the hardest to shoot. Not only are the subjects frequently “regular folks” (i.e., not camera-savvy models and actors), but wrapping up someone’s looks and personality and professionalism in a single image, sans distractions, with minimal editing, is no simple task. Find a photographer who shoots the kind of photos you need, and find a makeup artist who won’t make you look like someone else!
Also posted in Advice, Clients, Photoshoots
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Product review: Smashbox Complexion Perfection kit vol. 3
I’ve been wanting to test some of Smashbox‘s products for a long time, and a holiday gift certificate to Sephora provided the perfect opportunity to do so. I purchased the Smashbox Master’s Class Complexion Perfection volume 3 kit in Fair (also available in Light, Medium, and Dark), and have been wearing the products now for several weeks in order to determine whether I would recommend this all-in-one complexion kit to clients. (Vol. 3 must be a relatively new offering because it’s either not yet posted on either Sephora or Smashbox’s websites, or is sold out. I found it in-store.)
My impressions? Overall, this is a fairly good value for people seeking light coverage face makeup. You get a primer, full-sized foundation and concealer, powder duo, brushes, luminizer, and a how-to DVD for $59. Like any kit, though, there are some hits and misses. Let’s take it product by product:
1. HD Foundation: This is a very natural-looking satin-finish foundation that does not provide heavy coverage. (The level of coverage I achieved was on par with a good tinted moisturizer, though this is more buildable. It has less coverage than Makeup Forever HD liquid.) I liked this – I didn’t look heavily made up, which is my preference. It wore well. However, the shade included in the Fair kit (Light L1 – why the eff wouldn’t the Fair kit include one of the Fair shades??) was a touch too dark for me; I looked slightly bronzed, and had to apply to my neck and chest as well. But since it’s pretty sheer, I can definitely get away with it in the summer (I’ll admit it was surprisingly flattering; I don’t usually like a tanned effect on my skin!) If you’re very much on the pale-porcelain end of the spectrum, this probably wouldn’t be an ideal color match. The bottle includes a pump dispenser that worked nicely, but I’ll admit that a squeeze tube is always my favorite way to dispense a liquid. (It’s much easier to get product out of a tube when your supply dwindles!)
2. Hybrid 2-in-1 Luminizing Primer: This is essentially a mix of Smashbox’s popular Photo Finish primer and their Artificial Light luminizer in Flash, which has a pink glow to it. But they aren’t actually mixed, and instead squirt out simultaneously via two separate openings in the tube, and you then mix them. Which would be fine if I could get a better balance of primer vs. luminizer. No matter how I squeezed I ended up with a huge glop of primer, far more than I needed (you do not want to overapply silicon primers or they can ball up on you), and just a touch of the Artificial Light. Trying to get more of the latter just yielded a bigger pile of the former. Irritating. The Artificial Light is nice enough but mixing it with primer doesn’t make intuitive sense to me, because I generally don’t want to be glowy all over (although once you put the foundation and powder on top it takes the glow down considerably). I wish they’d separated these products instead of clumsily packaging them together and requiring me to cover up one half with my finger while dispensing.
3. Camera Ready Full Coverage Concealer: This is very creamy and blends down nicely, but I wouldn’t call it “full coverage.” I like a lightweight finish but I want my concealer to do a better job on blemishes and redness. This was more suited to just adding a touch more coverage in areas where needed, but not enough to effectively cover a zit. The positive trade off is it didn’t get cakey on me – it’s very creamy (which also meant it would crease if not set well). Pressure upon application also causes the stick to wind back down into the tube relatively easily. (Can you tell I’m a stickler about user-friendly packaging? No wonder I have all my kit stuff in tubes and palettes!)
4. Photo Op Under Eye Brightener: Also offers a very subtle effect – luminous, not frosty or overly shimmery. (Smashbox does liquid luminizers well, I’ll give ‘em that!) I honestly preferred this under my browbone and on my cheekbones, rather than directly under my eyes (where it was more likely to crease).
5. Pressed Powder/Bronze Lights Duo: This compact is definitely something I’d travel with. The powder felt silky and did an overall nice job setting the foundation without making it look “dusty” or dry. The bronzer (which I used for contouring, because it would be too dark on the high points of my face) ran a bit warm on me but not to the point of being orange.
6. Travel-sized kabuki (“baby buki”) and foundation brush: Nothing to write home about, as kit brushes rarely are. The buki was small enough to make contouring below my cheekbones easy (I used a larger brush to apply the powder), and the small foundation brush did a good job blending out the concealer (less so with the foundation – it’s just too small and stiff), but I prefer the brushes I already have.
7. Instructional DVD: It’s about 4 minutes long and shows the products in use; I think it’s nice that some companies are starting to include instructional media with their makeup. You won’t learn any wild tricks, but it’s useful for a beginner. The funniest part to me was when they showed the initial look (using just the kit products) versus the final look the model sports for the photo shoot at the very end (wearing a crap-ton more products, and not just eye and lip stuff either – she was SUPER glowy).
Overall I think this is a good value for $59, but definitely get color-matched before you buy the kit, get better brushes, be prepared to mix product and tinker with the packaging, and don’t rely on these products for heavy, matte coverage (Chances are, you don’t need as much coverage as you think you do, anyway!)
Also posted in Color choice, Products I dig
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